Monday, 4 October 2010

The Enemy

Honey Bee Diseases And Pests

Honey bee brood and adults are attacked by bacteria, viruses, protozoa's, fungi and exotic parasitic mites. Additionally, bee equipment is attacked by other insects. Disease and pest control requires constant vigilance by the beekeeper.

American Foulbrood - (AFB) is a bacterial disease of larvae and pupae. The bacteria form highly persistent spores that can be spread by adult bees and contaminated equipment. Infected larvae change color from a healthy pearly white to dark brown and die after they are capped. Cappings of dead brood sink inward and often are perforated. Check for AFB by thrusting a small stick or toothpick into the dead brood, mixing it then withdrawing the mass. Brood killed by AFB will be stringy and rope out about inch. Colonies with AFB must be burned by a state bee inspector. To prevent AFB, feed colonies the antibiotic TerramycinÆ according to label instructions in early spring and fall. Allow at least four weeks from the last TerramycinÆ treatment until the first nectar flow.

European Foulbrood - (EFB) is a bacterial disease of larvae. Unlike with AFB, larvae infected with EFB die before they are capped. Infected larvae are twisted in the bottoms of their cells, change to a creamy color and have a smooth "melted" appearance. Because EFB bacteria do not form persistent spores, this disease is not as dangerous as AFB. Colonies with EFB will sometimes recover on their own after a good nectar flow begins. To prevent EFB, treat colonies with TerramycinÆ as described above.

Chalkbrood - Is a fungal disease of larvae. Infected larvae turn a chalky white color, become hard then turn black. Chalkbrood is most frequent during damp conditions in early spring. Colonies usually recover on their own.

Nosema - Is a widespread protozoan disease of adult bees. In spring, infected colonies build up very slowly or not at all. Bees appear weak and may crawl around the front of the hive. Discourage nosema by selecting hive sites with good air flow. Damp, cold conditions seem to encourage this disease. Treat nosema by feeding the drug FumidilÆ B in sugar syrup in spring and fall. Do not feed the medication immediately before or during a nectar flow.

Wax Moths - Are a notorious pest of beekeeping equipment. Adult moths lay eggs near wax combs, then their larvae hatch and begin burrowing through the combs to eat debris in the cells. Moth larvae ruin combs and plaster them with webbing and feces. Honey bees are usually very good at protecting their colonies from moth larvae. If moth damage is found in a colony, there was some other problem (usually queen loss) that weakened the colony first. Moth damage is most common in stored supers of comb. Protect stored supers by stacking them no higher than five hive bodies. Tape shut all cracks, put paradichlorobenzene crystals at the top of the stack and cover the stack with a lid. Replenish the crystals as they evaporate.

Tracheal Mites - These microscopic mites enter the tracheae (breathing tubes) of young bees. Inside the tracheae, mites block air exchange and pierce the walls of the tubes to suck blood. Symptoms resemble those of nosema. Bees become weak, crawl at the hive entrance and sometimes uncouple their wings so that all four wings are visible. Colony death rates are highest during winter and early spring. If you suspect tracheal mites, see your county Extension agent for help in diagnosing the disease. Infested colonies are treated with MiticurÆ or special formulations of menthol.

Varroa Mites - These mites are about the size of a pin head and are copper in color. Female mites cling to adult bees and suck their blood. Females then enter a bee brood cell and produce several offspring which, in turn, suck the blood of the developing bee. Infested colonies almost always die within three to four years unless they are treated. Colonies are treated with ApistanÆ, a formulation of fluvalinate. Because tracheal mites and Varroa mites are newcomers to the United States, control technology is rapidly changing and has not been well worked out.

Where to get Bees?

The easiest, and sometimes the best, way to start keeping bees is to buy two established colonies from a reputable local beekeeper. Buying two colonies instead of one lets you interchange frames of brood and honey if one colony becomes weaker than the other and needs a boost. Buy bees in standard equipment only. Competent beekeepers usually have one or two hive bodies on the bottom board with shallower honey supers above. Question the seller if supers are arranged differently. The condition of the equipment may reflect the care the bees have received, so be suspicious of colonies in rotten, unpainted wood. Once the colony is opened, the bees should be calm and numerous enough that they fill most of the spaces between combs.

Be sure each super has at least nine frames of comb. Inspect combs in the deep supers for brood quality. Capped brood is tan - brown in color. A good queen will have at least five or six combs of brood, and she will lay eggs in a solid pattern so that there are few skipped cells. Look for symptoms of brood disease and wax moth larvae (see the section on "Honey Bee Diseases and Pests").

Bee hives are easiest to move during winter when they are lighter and populations are low. Moving hives is a two-man job. Close the hive entrance with a piece of folded window screen, seal other cracks with duct tape, fasten supers to each other and to the bottom board with hive staples then lift the hive into a truck bed or a trailer. Tie the hives down tightly. Remember to open hive entrances after the hives are relocated.

Why do Bees need flowers?

Why Do Bees Need Flowers?

Bees, like humans, require carbohydrates and protein to survive. They are able to get both from flowers, deriving carbohydrates from nectar and protein from pollen.

Why Bees Need Nectar?

Nectar is the base of all honey. Nectar is a sweet carbohydrate secreted from glands in different plants, mainly flowers. However, not all flowers can be used by honeybees. Deep blossoms may hold a lot of nectar but a bee's tongue is not long enough to reach the nectar within.

Why Bees Need Pollen?

Pollen is a protein that bees use to feed brood and create royal jelly for the queen. Bees collect pollen when their hairs rub against the anthers of flowers. Their front legs comb the pollen from their backs and deposit it on their back legs, where it is raked by hairs into a pollen sac and compressed.

Video- How to set up a Hive

A video off the internet of how to set up a hive. But where would you get the bees from is there a UK website? Who do you call? RESEARCH

Building a Bee hive

http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/multimedia/pdfs/Bee-Box.pdf
Image above explaining how to build a Bee Box

Help Bees

What do you need to keep Bees?

You plan carefully where each seed and plant will go. Then you water, weed and prune to make sure your garden thrives. But have you ever thought of attracting insects for the betterment of your flowers?

Bees are one of the most efficient pollinating insects around. Attracting them to your garden can help your flowers flourish and your plants prosper.
Having a place for them to breed, such as this bee-box project, is a great start. Another good idea is to use plants that will attract and promote pollination. Some plants that bees love are:

• dogwood
• black-eyed Susan
• sunflower
• hyssop
• wild geranium

Once you have a place for bees to breed and flowers they are attracted to, be sure to avoid presticides to keep your gardenÂ’s ecosystem healthy.

Types of common bees in uk

Different types of Bees in the UK.cuckoo bumblebees
rarer bumblebees